A glass of Chianti in hand, and troubling news for anyone who makes wine: Britain's tax and customs authority, HMRC, has uncovered a black market for wine in England worth between 350 and 700 million pounds.

The volume involved runs somewhere between 90 and 180 million liters. HMRC's own figures suggest that 11% of all the wine drunk by British consumers does not come through regular, legal channels.

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That means around 20 million bottles are smuggled into the country every year. Worse still, some of that wine is not smuggled at all but produced illegally, using a "wine kit" that the European Union has already banned.

Imagine the taste of a wine made that way, cut with chemicals. It has nothing in common with real wine: grapes selected by hand, fermented the traditional way, and aged patiently in barrel. Every stage of winemaking needs its own time - that patience is exactly what makes a great wine.

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True wine lovers know what it means to enjoy a glass of fine wine, and they refuse to feed a black market built on illegal, counterfeit bottles.