Amid the rolling hills and towering cypress trees of Tuscany, I discovered Tenuta Torciano Winery.
Located in San Gimignano — 35 minutes from Florence, 20 from Siena — the winery has been owned and run by the same family for fifteen generations, over 300 years.
I took part in a lateral wine tasting that began with a Vernaccia and closed with Terrestre Super Tuscan, and included a Chianti, Chianti Classico "Doge", Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and a Brunello di Montalcino. The estate serves cured meats, cheeses and homemade bread alongside its own extra virgin olive oil, and offers a three-course lunch of family recipes for guests who can stay longer.
Local white wine
What is Vernaccia?
Although the family runs four more wineries, it's the San Gimignano property that produces Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a dry, crisp wine made from at least 90% Vernaccia grapes.
Vernaccia grapes have to be planted in sandstone-based vineyards, which limits production to San Gimignano. In the 1960s, Vernaccia di San Gimignano saw a resurgence: its distinctive crispness made it a popular alternative to blander wines made from Trebbiano and Malvasia blends. It's a simple everyday wine with a straw-yellow colour, a fresh, fruity bouquet and a characteristic, slightly bitter aftertaste. Vernaccia pairs perfectly with steamed, baked or grilled fish.
Not just wine
EVO, too
Besides its wines, Tenuta Torciano produces a really delicious extra virgin olive oil. The olive trees grow on the property, and the oil is pressed from 100% Leccino olives, with no blending. Leccino olives have a delicate, wonderful flavour with notes of fresh grass, parsley, chive, celery and green apple: not too aggressively bitter or spicy, with a simple white pepper finish.
If you're planning a visit to Tuscany, Tenuta Torciano is a must. If you can't wait, order from their website — they ship directly from their U.S. warehouse.
